Short answer: East and south of the Andes, Colombia opens up into two worlds that few travellers see. The Llanos – the Eastern Plains of the Orinoco basin – are endless savannas full of wildlife, home of the Llanero cowboys; think of them as Colombia’s answer to an African safari. Further south, the Amazon around Leticia is a world of rivers, rainforest, pink river dolphins and indigenous communities. In between lie two special places: Caño Cristales, the “river of five colours” in the Serranía de la Macarena, and the rock art and rock formations of Guaviare. This guide explains each region, the seasons and how to get there.
The Llanos: Colombia’s wildlife safari
The Llanos Orientales stretch from the foothills of the Andes to the Venezuelan border – a huge, open landscape of grasslands, gallery forests, rivers and wetlands. It is one of the best regions in Colombia for wildlife: capybaras, caimans, giant anteaters, deer, howler monkeys, river turtles, anacondas and hundreds of bird species such as scarlet macaws, jabirus and Orinoco geese. It is also the land of the Llaneros, the Colombian cowboys, with their horses, cattle ranches, harp music and the joropo dance.
We travel to the savannas of Casanare and stay at Juan Solito Ecolodge, in a private nature reserve on a working cattle ranch committed to conservation. From there you explore the plains by jeep, 4×4 truck or tractor with local trackers, go on foot and on horseback, and take a boat at sunset on the Ariporo River. See our 5-day Orinoco Wild Safari.
Best time: the dry season from December to April is the best time for a safari – the animals gather around the remaining water and are easier to see. From May to November the rains turn large parts of the savanna into wetlands: green and beautiful, but wildlife is more spread out and some areas are hard to reach.
Caño Cristales: the river of five colours
In the Serranía de la Macarena, an ancient mountain range where the Andes, the Amazon and the Orinoco meet, flows Caño Cristales. For a few months a year, an aquatic plant (Macarenia clavigera) colours the riverbed bright red and pink, mixed with the yellow of the sand, the green of algae and the blue of the water and sky. The river is open to visitors from about June to early December, depending on the water level; the colours are usually most intense from July to September.
Caño Cristales is strictly protected: you can only visit with an authorised local guide and a permit arranged in advance through a registered agency, and sunscreen and insect repellent are not allowed in the water. Seasonal flights of about one hour connect Bogotá and Villavicencio with La Macarena; from there you continue by boat on the Guayabero River and by car to the trails. Most visitors stay three days and two nights.
Guaviare: rock art and the gateway to the Amazon
Around San José del Guaviare, about an hour’s flight from Bogotá, the savannas meet the rainforest. The Serranía de la Lindosa is famous for its huge walls of ancient rock paintings, thousands of years old, showing animals, people and geometric figures. The region also offers spectacular rock formations and natural arches, rivers and natural pools – some of them also coloured by the same red plants as Caño Cristales – and lagoons where you can see river dolphins. It is a good option for travellers who want a taste of the Amazon region without travelling all the way to Leticia. We can add a few days in Guaviare to your trip – ask us for an itinerary.
The Amazon around Leticia
Leticia, on the Amazon River at the triple border of Colombia, Brazil and Peru, is the gateway to the Colombian Amazon. From here, boats take you upriver to nature reserves and indigenous communities. Highlights include:
- Nature reserves such as Acapu and Marasha, with jungle trails, night walks, medicinal plants and lakes rich in birds and fish.
- Indigenous communities – Tikuna, Huitoto (Murui) and others – where you learn about their way of life, crafts and the traditional mambe made from coca leaves, in a maloca, the communal house.
- Mocagua and the Maikuchiga Foundation, which rescues and rehabilitates monkeys, and canoe trips on the small jungle creeks.
- Puerto Nariño, a car-free village on the river, and the Tarapoto lakes, where you can often see pink and grey river dolphins.
The Amazon combines perfectly with the Caribbean – see our 14-day Amazon, indigenous people and Caribbean tour.
Water levels: life in the Amazon follows the rise and fall of the river. The water rises from December, is highest from March to May, starts to drop in June and July, and is lowest from August to October. High water lets you glide by canoe through the flooded forest; in the driest months it is hotter and some activities, such as kayaking and visiting the dolphins in the Tarapoto lakes, may not be possible.
Getting there
- Llanos (Casanare): flight from Bogotá to Yopal, then about 4 hours by 4×4 to the reserve.
- Caño Cristales: seasonal flights from Bogotá or Villavicencio to La Macarena (about 1 hour).
- Guaviare: flights from Bogotá to San José del Guaviare (about 1 hour).
- Amazon: flights from Bogotá to Leticia (about 2 hours); from there by boat.
More in our guide to getting around Colombia.
Tips for the Llanos and the Amazon
- Yellow fever: vaccination is recommended for the Llanos, the Amazon, Guaviare and La Macarena – see our guide to entry requirements and health.
- Bring light long-sleeved clothes, a hat, rain jacket, binoculars and insect repellent (but remember: no repellent or sunscreen in the water at Caño Cristales) – see our packing list.
- Domestic flights to these regions often have small planes and strict baggage limits – pack light.
- Respect the indigenous communities and ask before taking photos – see our guide to culture and etiquette.
Plan your trip with us
We have been exploring Colombia’s wild regions for many years and work with local guides, ecolodges and communities who protect them. We combine the Llanos, Caño Cristales, Guaviare or the Amazon with Medellín, the coffee region or the coast to suit you. Ask for your itinerary or write to us on WhatsApp.
Last updated: November 2026. Seasons, park openings and flight schedules change – we check the current situation before every trip.
