Short answer: The south of Colombia combines three very different worlds within a few hours of each other: the red and grey canyons of the Tatacoa Desert, the mysterious stone statues of San Agustín, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the high-altitude páramo, volcanoes and hot springs of Puracé National Park. Further west lies Popayán, the colonial “White City”, and the village of Silvia, home of the Misak indigenous people. Together they make a perfect round trip for travellers interested in history, archaeology and landscapes off the beaten path. This guide explains each place, how to get there and how to combine them.
The Tatacoa Desert
About an hour from Neiva, near the small town of Villavieja in Huila, the Tatacoa Desert is one of the most surprising landscapes in Colombia. It is not a true desert but a tropical dry forest, eroded over millions of years into a maze of canyons, gullies and rock towers. The area around El Cuzco glows in red and ochre; the area of Los Hoyos is grey, with a natural pool for cooling off. Cacti, foxes, lizards and many birds live here, and the region is rich in fossils, some of which are on display in the small museum in Villavieja.
The Tatacoa is also one of the best places in Colombia for stargazing: thanks to the dry air and almost no light pollution, the night sky is spectacular, and local astronomers offer evening sessions with telescopes. It is hot during the day – often well over 30 °C – so the best times to walk are at sunrise and in the late afternoon. We recommend at least one night in the desert.
San Agustín: the stone statues of the Andes
In the green hills near the source of the Magdalena River lies one of the most important archaeological sites in South America. Between roughly the first and eighth centuries AD, a people whose name we do not know carved hundreds of stone statues – gods, guardians, animals and figures that are half human, half animal – and placed them at their tombs and ceremonial sites. Since 1995 the San Agustín Archaeological Park has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In the main park you walk through forest between the burial mounds and statues of the Mesitas, see the Fuente de Lavapatas, a ceremonial fountain carved into the riverbed, and the Forest of Statues. Nearby, the sites of Alto de los Ídolos and Alto de las Piedras near Isnos have some of the largest and best-preserved statues, some still with traces of colour. The region is also beautiful for nature lovers: the Estrecho del Magdalena, where the young river squeezes through a gorge only a few metres wide, waterfalls such as Salto de Bordones and Salto del Mortiño, coffee farms and horseback rides through the hills.
Puracé National Park: volcanoes, páramo and hot springs
Between San Agustín and Popayán, the road climbs into Puracé National Park, a wild high-mountain landscape on both sides of the Andes. Here rise the Puracé volcano and the Coconucos range, and here the Magdalena, Cauca and Caquetá rivers are born. You walk through the páramo, a unique high-altitude ecosystem with frailejones, mosses and lagoons, past waterfalls and steaming sulphur hot springs. With luck you can see the Andean condor, the national bird of Colombia. Temperatures can be cold and the weather changes quickly, so bring warm, waterproof clothing.
Popayán: the White City
Founded in 1537, Popayán is one of the oldest and most elegant colonial cities in Colombia, known as the “White City” for its whitewashed houses, churches and cloisters. Its Holy Week processions, held for centuries, are on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, and the city was named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy for its traditional cuisine. Walk through the historic centre, visit the old bridge of El Humilladero and enjoy the view from the Morro de Tulcán.
Silvia and the Misak people
About an hour and a half from Popayán, in a green Andean valley, lies the village of Silvia, home of the Misak (also known as Guambianos). The Misak have kept their language, their community organisation and their traditional dress – blue skirts and ponchos, scarves and small felt hats – and are known for their weaving and their farming in the high mountains. The best day to visit is Tuesday, when families come down from the mountains to the market. We offer day tours to Silvia from Popayán with a local guide, always respecting the community’s rules – please ask before taking photos of people.
Please note: Popayán and Silvia (department of Cauca) are subject to the current security situation and government travel advice, which we will inform you about before you book. If a visit is not advisable, you can fly out from Neiva airport after San Agustín to other parts of Colombia.
Best time to visit
The south can be visited all year. The Tatacoa Desert is hot and dry most of the year, with some rain around April–May and October–November – the clearest nights for stargazing are usually in the drier months. In San Agustín and Puracé the climate is mild to cool, and it can rain in any month; the driest periods are usually December to March and June to August. For Popayán’s Holy Week processions, book well in advance. More in our guide to the best time to visit Colombia.
Getting there and around
- Tatacoa: fly from Bogotá to Neiva (about 1 hour), then about 1 hour by road to Villavieja and the desert.
- San Agustín: about 4–5 hours by road from Neiva, or fly from Bogotá to Pitalito, about 45 minutes from San Agustín.
- Puracé and Popayán: the road from San Agustín crosses Puracé National Park to Popayán, partly unpaved – a full travel day with stops. Popayán has flights to Bogotá.
We organise private transfers for the whole route. More in our guide to getting around Colombia.
How many days do you need?
- 3–4 days: Tatacoa (one night) and San Agustín (two nights).
- 7 days: the full route Bogotá – Tatacoa – San Agustín – Puracé – Popayán – Silvia, as on our 7-day Southern Colombia round trip with a private driver-guide.
- The south combines well with Bogotá, the coffee region or the Amazon.
Tips for the south
- Bring sun protection and plenty of water for the desert, and warm layers and a rain jacket for San Agustín and the páramo – see our packing list.
- In Puracé you can reach well over 3,000 metres – take it slowly if you come from the lowlands.
- Bring cash for the small towns and entrance fees. More in money in Colombia.
- Read our tips on safety in Colombia and on culture and etiquette.
Plan your trip to the south with us
We know the guides, drivers and small hotels along the route personally and plan every trip according to the current situation. We combine the south with Bogotá, Medellín, the coffee region or the Amazon to suit you. Ask for your itinerary or write to us on WhatsApp.
Last updated: November 2026.
